The La Mercè Festival in Barcelona is the Catalan capital’s annual city festival and its most significant celebration. Officially designated as a city holiday in 1871, La Mercè commemorates the Roman Catholic feast of Our Lady of Mercy (‘La Mare de Déu de la Mercè’). While the feast day itself falls on September 24, the festivities typically begin a few days earlier, transforming Barcelona into a stage for cultural expression, tradition and modern artistry.
With its mix of historical significance and contemporary entertainment, La Mercè draws nearly two million visitors annually, offering a week-long program of over 600 free events spread across the city’s streets, plazas and parks. These festivities are rooted in centuries-old traditions, but they also embrace modernity, reflecting Barcelona’s dynamic spirit.
Historical Origins of La Mercè
La Mercè has deep religious and historical roots. Its origins can be traced back to medieval times, with a pivotal moment occurring in 1687. That year, Barcelona faced a devastating locust plague, prompting the city council (‘Consell de Cent’) to seek divine intervention from the Virgin of Grace (‘Mare de Déu de la Mercè’). When the plague subsided, the Virgin was proclaimed the city’s patroness. Although this designation was locally embraced, it was not officially recognized by the Pope until 1868. Shortly after, the first official La Mercè festival was held to honour her.
The term ‘mercè’ in Catalan carries meanings of service, compassion and mercy, attributes associated with the Virgin. Her significance is enshrined in the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, where a revered wooden statue of the Virgin draws worshippers and tourists alike.
Evolution of the Mercè Festival
La Mercè’s modern identity began to take shape in 1902 when many of its iconic elements were introduced. Among these were the parades featuring ‘gegants i capgrossos’ (giant papier-mâché figures and big-headed characters) and the ‘Sardana’, a traditional Catalan dance that gained prominence across the region. These additions established La Mercè as a celebration of Catalan culture and identity.
Over the years, the festival’s program has expanded to include diverse events that cater to all ages and interests. Traditional elements like religious processions and folk dances coexist with contemporary offerings such as live music, street theatre and innovative art installations. The festival’s inclusivity and variety make it a reflection of Barcelona’s cosmopolitan character.
Religious Significance and the Virgin of Mercy
At its core, La Mercè is a tribute to the Virgin of Grace, who shares co-patronage of Barcelona with Saint Eulàlia. The festival’s religious aspect is most evident in the processions and ceremonies held in her honour. The Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy serves as the spiritual heart of the festival, hosting special masses and events that draw devout followers.
The Virgin’s dual role as a spiritual protector and a symbol of mercy resonates deeply with the city’s history. Her intercession during the 1687 plague reinforced her status as a figure of hope and compassion, qualities that continue to inspire the festival’s celebratory spirit.
Key Traditions of La Mercè
The ‘Gegants i Capgrossos
One of La Mercè’s most beloved traditions is the parade of ‘gegants i capgrossos’. These towering figures, some reaching heights of over three metres, represent kings, queens, mythical creatures and local characters. Crafted with meticulous detail, they are carried through the streets in lively processions accompanied by music and dance. The ‘capgrossos’, or big-headed figures, often add a humorous touch, interacting playfully with the crowd.
The Sardana
The ‘Sardana’ is another hallmark of La Mercè. This traditional Catalan dance, performed in a circle, symbolizes unity and community. Participants hold hands and execute intricate steps to the rhythm of a live ‘cobla’ band. The dance’s simplicity and inclusivity invite both locals and visitors to join in, creating a shared cultural experience.
Castellers: The Human Towers
Few spectacles are as awe-inspiring as the ‘castellers’, or human towers. This centuries-old tradition involves teams, or ‘colles’, constructing multi-tiered towers by standing on each other’s shoulders. The formation of a ‘castell’ requires immense strength, balance and coordination, culminating in a young child climbing to the top as the ‘enxaneta’. Declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, the ‘castellers’ embody the values of teamwork and resilience.
Modern-Day Highlights
Correfoc: The Fire Run
The ‘correfoc’ is one of La Mercè’s most thrilling and fiery events. As night falls, participants dressed as devils and mythical creatures parade through the streets, wielding sparklers and firecrackers. Drummers and pyrotechnics create a dynamic, almost otherworldly atmosphere. Spectators are encouraged to wear protective clothing and immerse themselves in this exhilarating display of controlled chaos.
The Piromusical
La Mercè concludes with the ‘piromusical’, a grand finale that combines fireworks, music and water displays at the base of Montjuïc’s Magic Fountain. This spectacular show synchronizes pyrotechnics with a curated soundtrack, often featuring a mix of classical, contemporary and Catalan music. The event draws massive crowds, offering a fitting end to the week-long celebrations.
Guest City Program
A unique feature of La Mercè is the Guest City program, which invites a city from around the world to showcase its culture and artists. This initiative adds an international dimension to the festival, fostering cultural exchange and broadening its appeal. Past guest cities have included Reykjavik, Buenos Aires and New York, each bringing their unique flavour to the festivities. The guest city for 2025 will be Manchester which will be the first time a British city has been represented at the event.
Practical Tips for Attending
Entrance Fees: Most events are free of charge, but arriving early is advisable to secure a good spot, particularly for popular attractions like the ‘piromusical’ and the ‘correfoc’.
Getting Around: For those planning to attend La Mercè, preparation is key to making the most of this vibrant festival. Public transportation, especially the metro, operates around the clock during the festivities, making it easy to navigate the city.
La Mercè is perhaps the greatest of all the annual festivals in Barcelona which celebrates the city’s identity, history and creativity. From its religious origins honouring the Virgin of Mercy to its modern-day extravaganza of art, music and tradition, La Mercè captures the essence of the city’s spirit. For travellers and locals alike, it offers an unforgettable experience that blends the old and the new, the sacred and the celebratory. Whether witnessing the human towers, dancing the ‘Sardana’, or marvelling at the fireworks of the ‘piromusical’, La Mercè promises a journey into the heart of Catalan culture and the vibrant soul of Barcelona.
Is there a Festival La Merce in the year 2019 and what are the dates? Thank you, John Arsenault
Tuesday 24th September is the date for 2019