Spain's Wine Festivals - Fiestas de la Vendimia
Apart from the fact that the sun shines in the summer, one of the most
undeniable aspects of Spanish life is that, throughout the country, you are
guaranteed to find a festival every week of the year. And, given the Spanish
affection for their wine, it is of no great surprise to find that many of the
festivals scattered around the country come under the denomination of Fiestas de
la Vendimia – Festivals of Wine.
Although it is probably the red wines from Rioja, the sherries from Jerez and
the more recently internationally discovered wines from Ribera del Duero that
are recognised as quality wines, nearly every region of Spain has its own
vineyards, some of them producing wines of a surprisingly high calibre.
And for every wine-producing region, there’ll be a series of Fiestas de la
Vendimia.
In many of the wine growing areas, as we shall see, the festivals begin around
about September 21st, but there are lots of places which celebrate their new
vintage at different times.
Around the third week of May, for example, there is a delightful festival
dedicated to the local Manzanilla held in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. This lovely
town at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river, looking across at the Doņana
National Park produces a fino wine, very similar to sherry but unfortified and
with a delightful delicate flavour that the locals say obtains its delicacy from
the sea breezes working their way through the bodegas. The quality of the sea
food here is best enjoyed with a glass of manzanilla whilst listening to local
flamenco – it doesn’t get much better.
During March, you’ll find a fantastic feiro do viņo in the small market town
of Chantada, in the province of Lugo in the very heart of Galicia. Chantada is a
typical Galician town with Romanesque churches, steep terraced vineyards and
hill forts from the iron ages. You will find fabulous Albariņo wines and spicy
young red wines made from the mencía grape. The accompanying food of choice is
pulpo which is cooked up in enormous copper cauldrons – into which you dip the
crusty bread that is a speciality of the nearby village of Cea. Spend all night
dancing to a local band and then do the very same thing the next day!
If you’re a fan of bathing in wine as well as drinking it, then perhaps think
about a visit to Haro, in La Rioja, at the end of June for the Feast of Saint
Peter. It is here that they have a spectacular Batalla del Vino in which
hundreds of people throng the streets with huge plastic bottles or leather bags
of wine that they proceed to spray over everyone else. Don’t wear your best
clothes and you’ll probably have great fun. It also helps that the town of Haro
is reputed to be one of the finest places for tapas in the whole of the region,
as well.
Towards the end of August there is another opportunity for a soaking in the
Fiesta de la Vendimia in the Valencian town of Requena – only this time it’s
with water. On the noche de zurra, the people parade the streets calling for
water to help with the next year’s grape harvest. Neighbours and firemen alike
then delight in making their prayers come true by using hoses and buckets to
totally soak the paraders. You will find that wine from the year’s first
pressing will help the recovery process.
In La Rioja, however, Spain’s most famous wine-producing region, the fiestas are
generally held towards the end of September, especially around St Matthew’s Day,
the 24th. The most celebrated, and biggest, of these is at the capital of the
province, Logroņo. Here, the grape harvest is commemorated with a complete week
devoted to parades, bull fights, concerts, street theatre, ball games, fireworks
– and, of course, wine.
The whole event begins when, in the Paseo del Espolon, there is an opening
ceremony in which, accompanied by blaring horns, men stomp grapes in a large
barrel ready to offer the first juice of the year to the patroness of La Rioja,
the Virgen de Valvanera.
As with all of the festivals, food plays almost as large a part in the process
as the wine itself. In Logroņo, the speciality revolves around food cooked in
the sarmientos – wood saved from last year’s pruning of the grape vines.
Especially delicious is the local lamb and the very hungry, or competitive,
visitor might want to participate in the chuleta eating competitions.
There are many, many more Wine Festivals throughout the country – each of them
having its own special atmosphere and customs. Although the famous ones have,
justifiably, attracted visitors over the years, there is a special delight to be
found by discovering a small fiesta in a little village somewhere that helps
illustrate the great dependency, and love, the Spanish have for their wine. |