Top 10 Things to Do in Pamplona: Beyond the Running of the Bulls

Most people’s knowledge of Pamplona begins and ends with those eight minutes of chaos each July when bulls and runners tear through cobbled streets. Which is a shame, because there’s considerably more to this elegant Navarrese capital than its famous encierro. The city sits at the foot of the Pyrenees where Romans built Pompaelo in 75BC – it served as capital of the independent Kingdom of Navarre before southern parts were annexed by Spain in 1512, explaining those extraordinary Renaissance fortifications still encircling the old town.

What strikes me about Pamplona, having been a regular visitor since my first San Fermín in the early 1990s, is how it is a fully functioning regional capital which hasn’t sold out to tourism. The university creates genuine energy, the pintxos culture operates at high level without San Sebastián’s prices and medieval pilgrims still pause here on their Camino journey just as they have for centuries.

When it comes to things to do in Pamplona, you’re looking at a city rewarding exploration beyond the July festival. The fortifications demonstrate Renaissance military engineering brilliantly, the Gothic cathedral cloister is genuinely exceptional, whilst green spaces – Pamplona’s one of Spain’s most park-filled cities – provide breathing room that purely architectural destinations lack. Here are some of the main attractions:

Best Things to Do in Pamplona

Explore the Old Town

Pamplona’s Casco Antiguo is wonderfully confusing medieval maze – streets twist unpredictably, open into small squares, creating that organic layout shaped by centuries of development. King Carlos III unified the competing boroughs in 1423, but the essential medieval character persists.

At the heart sits Plaza del Castillo, enclosed by elegant 18th-century arcades and lined with cafés where locals conduct daily routines. The square’s famous for Café Iruña (Plaza del Castillo, 44), where Hemingway spent considerable time during his 1920s visits. They’ve capitalised thoroughly on the literary connection – “Hemingway’s Corner” complete with bronze bust – but underneath the tourism it functions genuinely as local institution. The Belle Époque interior’s been maintained beautifully.

The 18th-century Casa Consistorial (Town Hall) features the famous balcony where at noon on July 6th the chupinazo rocket launches San Fermín, sending thousands in Plaza Consistorial below into collective frenzy as wine flows and nine days of celebration begin.

Walking Calle Estafeta outside festival time provides sobering perspective – it’s 250 metres of narrow cobbled street where bulls reach maximum speed. You notice wooden barriers stored ready, reinforced doorways, places where runners desperately climb walls. The total encierro route covers 825 metres from Santo Domingo to the bullring, taking two to four minutes of absolute terror.

Medieval churches like San Saturnino (13th century) and San Nicolás (12th century) doubled as fortifications, built solid with fortress-like towers. The old town is packed with traditional bars around Calle Estafeta and Calle San Nicolás – the heart of Pamplona’s excellent pintxos scene.

Pamplona Cathedral

Santa María la Real Cathedral sits at the old town’s northern edge – Gothic construction from the 14th century that took 130 years to complete. Behind the neoclassical façade (added later, which annoys purists) lies impressive Gothic interior with soaring vaulted ceilings and light filtering through stained glass.

The cloister is where it becomes exceptional – considered one of Europe’s finest Gothic cloisters, and having seen plenty, the reputation’s justified. Intricate stone traceries, carved capitals depicting biblical and medieval scenes, the way light plays across stonework – it’s genuinely beautiful. Take proper time here rather than rushing through.

The cathedral museum houses the tomb of King Charles III of Navarre, who unified Pamplona’s boroughs and married Eleanor of Castile to end conflict. The crypt holds remains of all Kings of Navarre since 1134, though it’s not open to visitors. The cathedral’s also a significant Camino de Santiago stop – pilgrims arrive via Roncesvalles, typically on their fourth day from France.

Walk the City Walls and Fortifications

After 1512 annexation, Pamplona remained frontier outpost protecting Castilian interests against France, explaining the impressive fortifications. You can walk over 5 kilometres of ramparts offering panoramic views across the Arga River toward Pyrenean foothills. These are Renaissance defences designed for artillery warfare – thick angled walls absorbing bombardment, bastions providing covering fire.

Start at the Centro de Interpretación de las Fortificaciones (Calle Arrieta con Aralar) for maps and history. The Ciudadela is the centrepiece – star-shaped fortress built under Philip II from 1571, designed by Italian military engineers who understood artillery warfare brilliantly. Five bastions form perfect star, geometric angles creating overlapping fields of fire.

The military abandoned it in 1964, and the city converted it into Vuelta del Castillo Park – tree-lined paths, lawns for picnics, art exhibitions in former powder magazines, concerts in courtyards that stored weapons. You can explore bastions and underground passages, understanding how it worked. Summer evenings bring outdoor cinema, locals jogging circuits, families on grass that once provided defensive killing zones. Brilliant example of adaptive reuse.

San Fermín Festival and Running of the Bulls

Right, the ‘encierros’ (bullruns) take place from July 7th-14th at exactly 8am – bulls released from Santo Domingo corrals charging 825 metres to the bullring, hundreds of runners in white with red scarves testing themselves against 600-kilogram animals bred for aggression.

It’s genuinely dangerous. Sixteen deaths since 1910, most recent in 2009. Serious injuries occur every year – gorings, tramplings, crushing in bottlenecks. Medical teams line the entire route because casualties are expected. Add alcohol, crowds, slippery cobblestones, tight corners – considerable risk regardless of fitness.

The animal welfare questions are legitimate and increasingly contentious. Bulls experience obvious stress before dying in afternoon corridas. Defenders argue centuries-old tradition; critics say tradition doesn’t justify suffering. Pamplonicans themselves are divided.

But San Fermín extends far beyond eight morning runs. Nine days of continuous celebration honouring the city’s patron saint – parades, midnight fireworks, concerts, traditional dances, religious ceremonies. Everyone wears white with red, creating that collective energy when an entire city celebrates simultaneously. It’s chaotic, exhausting, occasionally dangerous from overcrowding alone, but the intensity creates lasting memories.

The festival actually begins at noon on July 6th when the chupinazo rocket launches from the Town Hall, and runs until midnight on July 14th. Over 20,000 runners participate across eight mornings, and over a million visitors flood the city. If you’re coming: book accommodation a year ahead, expect prices multiplying several times over, accept you’ll sleep very little.

Despite serious concerns, San Fermín remains extraordinary cultural event creating something genuinely unique in European festivals.

Hemingway in Pamplona

Ernest Hemingway discovered Pamplona in 1923, returned repeatedly through the decade, and his 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises introduced San Fermín to international audiences – essentially creating modern festival tourism here. Whether that’s entirely positive depends on perspective.

Café Iruña was his regular haunt – you can sit at “Hemingway’s table” today. The Gran Hotel La Perla (Plaza del Castillo, 1) preserves Room 201 as “Hemingway’s room” with period furnishings – 5-star luxury if you’ve got budget for literary pilgrimage. A statue stands outside the bullring on Paseo de Hemingway acknowledging his influence.

Plaza de Toros and Museum

Pamplona’s bullring, inaugurated in 1922, is Spain’s third largest – capacity 19,721. During San Fermín it fills daily at 6:30pm for corridas featuring top matadors. Those bulls running streets each morning are the same bulls dying each afternoon – the encierro is how they reach the ring.

Outside festival season, tour the arena and museum exploring bullfighting history and San Fermín traditions. Whether visiting feels appropriate depends on your position regarding bullfighting – if you’re interested in understanding cultural practices you might disagree with, it provides context. If it represents animal cruelty you can’t look past, skip it.

Parks and Green Spaces

Pamplona’s genuinely one of Spain’s greenest cities – roughly 16 square metres of park space per inhabitant. The Taconera Gardens date from the 19th century with tree-lined avenues, flowerbeds, peacocks and deer wandering freely – charming mini-zoo element children love. The gardens incorporate old ramparts, letting you walk wall sections whilst enjoying greenery.

The Citadel Park occupies that star-shaped fortress – locals jogging, cycling, picnicking on grass that once formed defensive glacis. Summer brings outdoor cinema and concerts. The Arga Riverside Park stretches along the river with paths for walking or cycling, viewpoints back toward cathedral and fortifications. These parks prevent Pamplona feeling oppressively urban – you shift between medieval intensity and substantial green space within minutes.

Museums and Cultural Life

The Museo de Navarra, housed in a former 16th-century hospital on Cuesta Santo Domingo, traces regional history from prehistoric Vascones tribe through Roman Pompaelo to the medieval Kingdom of Navarre. The 1st-century Roman mosaic depicting Bacchus’s triumph is genuinely exceptional. Medieval sections feature Romanesque and Gothic sculpture, whilst Goya paintings demonstrate why he dominated Spanish art. For regional museum it’s excellent.

The Oteiza Museum in Alzuza (9km east) showcases Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza’s abstract work – important if you’re interested in how Spanish culture engaged with European modernism, skippable if abstract sculpture leaves you cold.

Watch a La Liga Football Match

If you want to experience Pamplona like a local, spend an afternoon or evening at El Sadar Stadium, home of Club Atlético Osasuna. Founded in 1920, Osasuna is one of Spain’s most traditional football clubs and a source of immense pride for the people of Navarre. The team usually competes in La Liga, Spain’s top division, and matches here have a lively yet friendly atmosphere that reflects Pamplona’s strong community spirit.

El Sadar, which holds around 23,500 spectators, was recently renovated, giving it a modern look while keeping its close, intimate feel. Tickets are usually available on the day, either at the stadium ticket office or online via the official Osasuna website.

Gastronomy and Pintxos Culture

Navarre’s cuisine combines mountain dishes with Basque and Riojan influences. The pintxos scene (bars here use “pintxos” not “tapas”) operates at high level without San Sebastián’s prices. Locals do the poteo (bar crawl) through streets off Plaza del Castillo, sampling offerings whilst drinking.

Top bars: Bar Gaucho (Calle de Espoz y Mina, 7) for exquisite traditional pintxos. Bar Baserri (Calle San Nicolás, 32) long-established and always packed. La Cocina de Alex Mugica (Calle de la Estafeta, 24) for creative pintxos made to order. Bar La Botería (Calle Roncesvalles) near the bullring with nice terrace.

Try pochas (fresh white beans with vegetables), cordero al chilindrón (lamb stewed with local piquillo peppers from Lodosa), Idiazábal cheese (smoked sheep’s milk from the mountains), paired with DO Navarra wines or Rioja. For formal dining: Restaurante Europa (Calle Espoz y Mina, 11) has a Michelin star. Asador Zaldiko (Cuesta de Santo Domingo, 39) serves enormous grilled steaks.

Mercado de Santo Domingo on Calle Mercado opened 1876 (though markets operated here since 1324) – worth visiting for atmosphere and regional produce even if you’re not shopping.

Day Trips from Pamplona

North to the Pyrenees: Roncesvalles (50km) – first major Camino stop after crossing from France, dramatic high pass, monastery welcoming pilgrims for centuries. Parque Natural Urbasa Andía (60km west) features turquoise lakes and waterfalls – park at Banquedano village for maps before hiking.

West to Basque Country: San Sebastián (80km, about an hour) – elegant beach resort with celebrated pintxos scene. Bilbao (90 minutes) – Guggenheim and transformed industrial city.

South to wine country: Rioja within an hour – towns like Haro, numerous bodegas for tours and tastings. Olite (45km) – fairy-tale castle where Charles III resided, combine with DO Navarra vineyard visits.

Also worth visiting: Puente la Reina (20km) – historic bridge on the Camino. Estella – Romanesque architecture including San Pedro de la Rúa’s stunning cloister.

FAQ: Visiting Pamplona

How do I get to Pamplona?

By train: Madrid Atocha 3-4 hours, Barcelona Sants 4 hours, San Sebastián 2 hours. Station is 2km northwest of Plaza del Castillo with frequent buses to centre. By bus: Bilbao 1¾ hours, San Sebastián 1 hour, Barcelona/Madrid 5 hours. Bus station (Calle Yanguas y Miranda, 2) is 800m from Plaza del Castillo – 10-minute walk. By air: Pamplona Airport 6km from centre has limited connections – mainly Madrid/Barcelona. Most international visitors arrive via Bilbao Airport (90 minutes away).

Where should I stay?

Luxury: Gran Hotel La Perla (Plaza del Castillo, 1) – 5-star with Hemingway’s Room 201. Hotel Palacio Guendulain (Calle Zapateria, 53) – 4-star in former royal palace. Budget: Hostel Hemingway (Calle de Amaya, 26), Aloha Hostel (Calle de Sangüesa, 2-1º). Camping: Camping Ezcaba 7km from city. San Fermín: Book year ahead, prices multiply 3-5 times.

When’s the best time to visit?

Spring/autumn (April-May, September-October) offer ideal conditions – comfortable temperatures, reasonable prices, no crowds. San Fermín (July 6-14) is extraordinary but exhausting, crowded, expensive. Summer beyond festival is hot but lively. Winter is cold but authentic and cheap.

How long should I spend?

Two days covers main attractions and pintxos culture. Three-four days allows day trips to Pyrenees, Basque coast, wine country. San Fermín requires full nine days if genuinely participating.

Is the bull run dangerous?

Yes, genuinely. Sixteen deaths since 1910, most recent 2009. Serious injuries every year – gorings, tramplings, crushing. Bulls are 600kg fighting animals, narrow streets, no escape routes. Medical teams line the route expecting casualties. If considering participating, understand this isn’t exaggeration – real, documented, consistent risk of serious injury or death.

Is Pamplona worth visiting outside San Fermín?

Absolutely – arguably more so. Outside July you experience the actual city – impressive architecture (cathedral cloister is genuinely one of Europe’s finest), excellent food scene, substantial parks, access to Pyrenees, Basque coast, wine country. You explore without crowds, appreciate character without festival chaos, see how Pamplonicans actually live. The fortifications, museums, pintxos bars all function year-round at high level.

Final Thoughts

Pamplona’s greatest challenge is getting people to see beyond those eight July mornings. Yes, San Fermín is extraordinary, but defining the city exclusively through the encierro does it considerable disservice.

What I appreciate about Pamplona is how it’s maintained balance between celebrating famous tradition and functioning as actual regional capital. The Renaissance fortifications are genuinely impressive – amongst Spain’s best-preserved military architecture. The cathedral cloister rivals anything in northern Spain. The old town maintains medieval character without feeling preserved in aspic. The parks provide breathing room many heritage cities lack. The pintxos culture operates authentically year-round.

When it comes to things to do in Pamplona, the variety justifies spending time beyond the obvious. The five-kilometre fortifications walk reveals perspectives you won’t get at street level. The cathedral cloister deserves its reputation – allocate proper time. The pintxos culture requires experiencing multiple establishments, understanding why locals maintain fierce loyalty to particular bars. The surrounding region – Roncesvalles, Rioja, San Sebastián, the Pyrenees – all accessible as day trips.

Whether you visit during nine intense July days or explore the city functioning normally the other 356 days yearly, Pamplona rewards the time invested. Book accommodation well ahead for San Fermín, bring comfortable shoes for cobblestones and wall circuits, and accept that the city reveals itself gradually. That’s Pamplona – meeting expectations about festival intensity whilst offering considerably more depth about Navarrese culture, strategic history, and how regional capitals balance celebrated traditions with contemporary life.