Carnival in Cadiz
Cadiz is a beautifully serene city on the Andalucian coast
known for its elegance and grace. All of this is suspended for one week
every year for what is one of the largest Carnival celebrations in the
world.
Cadiz's carnival is the one of the most extravagant parties
that you can attend in Europe. This fast, exuberant burst of revelry and
colour is centred on Shrove Tuesday, at the end of February or beginning of
March, and it's a celebration of life and excess. Get swept up in the
excitement and get ready for the party of a lifetime. In total the
festivities last for ten days which take in two weekends. Rooms are booked
months in advance so be sure to plan your visit well ahead of time.
The air in Cadiz is full of music during carnival. This music varies in
terms of skill and style but with everyone playing their hearts out it's
hard not to enjoy it. Check out the 'chirigotas', officially recognised
groups of 'gaditanos' (people of Cadiz) who wander the streets entertaining
everyone with their funny songs. These songs satirize everything from pop
stars to politicians, and even if you don't speak Spanish, you can get into
the swing of their jaunty tunes. If you develop a taste for their music and
brand of satire, head to the 'chirigota' competition that takes place in
Gran Teatro Falla.
While 'chirigotas' usually set up in improvised locations like stairways and
street corners, the choirs (coros) are even harder to miss as they go
through the streets in open carts accompanied by guitars and lutes. As if
being in an open cart wasn't enough, they have the most extravagant costumes
in a carnival devoted to flashy (and sometimes flashing!) attire. In the
streets you can also find a wide variety of improvisational theatre
performed by 'ilegales', a term referring to just about anyone who fancies
taking part.
Head for c/ Ancha and c/ Columela as well as the
neighbourhood of Barrio de la Viña for some of the best spontaneous
entertainment. For more modern musical fare, head to the Plaza de Catedral
for some of the Spain's most popular rock groups.
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You may be surprised by the number of children running free
during carnival, but after a while it will cease to shock you. There are
plenty of children's entertainments in the plazas and squares, ranging from
puppet theatre to the daily 'Toronda', the fireworks display that takes
place in the Plaza San Juan de Dios.
One thing you'll notice is that the costumes are a less showy than the ones
you might see in Rio. In Cadiz, which has a reputation as the funniest town
in Spain, the emphasis is on satire and cleverness, and you'll see plenty of
politicians and clergy being mocked. You'll have the most fun by joining in
which is easy as wigs and hats are sold on every corner. Leave your
self-consciousness behind and follow the crowds to find the best parties.
Carnival in Cadiz ends with the Burial of the Sardine, and you can join
hundreds of "mourners" following the paper mache fish and loudly mourning
its passage. Most understandable as no one wants to see the end of a great
party!
While exploring carnival remember that this festival attracts people from
all over the world which inevitably includes some undesirables. All the
usual advice for travellers applies such as not carrying more money than you
can afford to lose, etc. While Cadiz is known as a wonderful place for
tourists from all countries, it always pays to be a little cautious!
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