Basque Country Tourism
Getting to the Basque Country
There are three International airports in the Basque Country –
Bilbao, San Sebastian
and Vitoria, all of which have frequent internal flights from Madrid and
Barcelona as well as flights from other European centres. At the time of
writing, EasyJet operate a service from London Stansted to Bilbao.
The rail network in the region is well developed, with RENFE linking the
major cities with the rest of central Spain and France. In addition, there are
local trains by FEVE and Eusko Tren and two underground lines in Bilbao itself,
Metro Bilbao.
The major road links consist of the A1, linking with central Spain; the AP8,
linking with France and the AP68, linking with the Mediterranean. Bilbao is the
major seaport of the region, with three ferry crossings each week from
Portsmouth and it is also now a regular calling place for cruise ships.
Top Basque Destinations
The three provincial capitals, Bilbao, San Sebastián and Vitoria, are the
major tourist destinations and they are all eminently worthy cities in their own
right. The transformation of Bilbao in recent years, summed up in 1997 with the
opening of the Guggenheim Museum, has
turned it into a popular short break location. The museum itself, irrespective
of its contents, is a very special building, although often very busy. For
lovers of more classical Spanish and world art, the Museo de Bellas Artes, a two
minute walk away, has a highly impressive permanent collection. Like so many
cities, the old town of Bilbao, with its atmospheric bars and buildings, is a
fabulous place to meander.
Much the same can be said about the casco viejo centre of Vitoria but, as this
is an important university centre, the nightlife tends to attract a younger
crowd than the more touristy Bilbao.
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San Sebastián, with its mightily impressive crescent beach, La Concha, is
steeped in Basque tradition and fiercely independent, whilst also inviting
visitors, who often compare it with its French counterpart, Biarritz.
Although these three cities attract the greatest numbers of visitors, there are
smaller places in the Basque Country which offer very differing experiences.
Many people are attracted to the small country town of Guernica, which was known
as the birthplace of Basque Parliamentarianism until, one Monday in April 1937,
it became infamous for being the town Hitler’s bombers blitzed at Franco’s
request. There is a museum in the centre of town which gives a horrifying
portrayal of the events that inspired Picasso’s nightmarish and probably most
famous painting.
Very different are the surfing hotspots of Zarautz and Mundaka, the delightful
fishing port at Lekeitio and the beautiful little wine-growing town of
Laguardia.
Tourist Activities in the Basque Country
It is tempting to say that the most popular tourist activity in the Basque
Country should be eating. Many places in Spain like to claim that they have the
best food in the country but any impartial judgement would surely award the
honour to this region. There were, at my last count, 21 Michelin Stars awarded
to restaurants here so this is the home of many of Spain’s most famous
international restaurants and chefs. These top eating places are only the summit
of a very impressive array of restaurants appealing to all tastes and price
ranges. The Basque Country is also home of the famous Gastronomic Societies, and
if you can obtain an invitation to eat at one of these, it would be truly
memorable.
The cultural triangle between Bilbao, Vitoria and San Sebastián, all within easy
reach of each other, can also offer a plethora of impressive museums, galleries
and architectural glories.
For sporting enthusiasts, surfing and cycling are very popular here, along with
the rather more esoteric and localised activities such as pelota vasca, a kind
of mixture of fives, squash and handball.
In the Alava town of Elciego there is the distinctive ‘City of Wine’, designed
by Frank Gerhy who also created the Guggenheim, and the wine route through the
Basque country includes some other very innovative cellars, such as the one at
Laguardia designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Basque Festivals
There are some unusual and entertaining festivals in the Basque Country held
throughout the year. At the beginning of December, for example, in Vitoria you
can attend, along with about 200,000 others, the Ardoaraba Wine Festival. Also
held in Vitoria is the Festival of La Bulsa, a smock worn on festive occasions
by young men. Sometimes known as Garlic Day, this is not for those who don’t
appreciate the smell or the taste of garlic everywhere.
San Sebastián has a spectacular Tamborrada, or Drum Procession, in January
each year, in which just under a hundred different groups of drummers march
around the streets and then continue ‘performing’ until the early hours in the
bars of the town.
Some of the most spectacular events are perhaps the Fishing Boat Regattas of La
Concha, where there are various races on the first two Sundays in September.
Food and Drink in the Basque Country
Basque specialties to keep an eye open for include the salt cod stew, bacalao
al pil pil; baby squid cooked in its own ink, chipirones en su tinta; enormous
beef steaks and chops; and the Basque version of tapas, pinchos or pintxos. The
best Basque wine is Txakoli, a fairly robust white wine, best drunk when it is
still quite young. There are some fine ciders available, and it is worth keeping
an eye open for Cider Houses, where you can often get great value meals
accompanied by different ciders. |